Hiking the Famous Vereda do Fanal, Madeira (PR13)

On a moody day, the vereda Fanal in Madeira may be the most unique and beautiful forest on the entire island! This fairy-esque forest is the reason we wanted to do the Vereda do Fanal hike so bad. 

We do want to let you know you can park right about 100 meters away from the Fanal Forest and experience it without having to walk there. But if you’ve been following us for a while, you know we love hiking and being out in nature so that’s why we decided to take the extra 10 km of hiking there 😉

The hike wasn’t easy. It was totally worth it though and we had the perfect misty, foggy, and magical weather when we got to the Fanal Forest. We couldn’t have asked for a better hike even though it was quite long and challenging! 

Along this hike, you’ll feel like you’re half in a fairy world and half in the new Lord of The Rings show. The scenery and nature is epic around the Vereda do Fanal in Madeira!

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What to expect when hiking Vereda Fanal

What to expect when hiking the Vereda do Fanal Madeira is quite the question. You really have to expect the unexpected. This hike is quite different from the Levada trails like Levada do Rei, Levada 25 Fontes and also very different from the coastal hikes like Ponta de São Lourenco and Vereda do Larano.

If you’re staying in Funchal or Ponta do Sol it may be warm and sunny and you can likely expect quite the opposite once you get near the Fanal Forest. With all the microclimates around the island, the weather around Madeira is always changing. You can see the current weather for Fanal Forest here.

More often than not it’s going to be quite foggy and moody up there. Even though it may be sunny 5 km from the trailhead, you might still see a huge cloud hovering over the Fanal area!

The fog and cloudiness do take away from some of the views along the PR 13 Vereda do Fanal but it also makes for a unique hiking experience. By the time you get to the Fanal Forest you’ll understand why. 

The majority of the hike takes place through the forest with completely different flora to the rest of the island. You feel like you’re in some elvish land walking through this enchanted forest. You can really tell your imagination will come to life during this hike.

We also found a few times that the scenery changed completely. Literally just after taking a few steps – especially towards the end of the hike. This was probably one of the coolest things about it!

Practical information about hiking Vereda do Fanal trail

Offical trail name: PR 13 – Vereda do Fanal
Distance: 20.4 km return / 12.67 miles return
Elevation: Roughly 1186 m / 3891 ft. elevation gain
Type: In and out trail
Length: 6-7 hours total (includes time for pictures and a lunch break)
Difficulty: Moderate-Hard (Because of the distance and elevation over time)
Rating: 4 out of 5 stars and 5 stars for the Fanal Forest

Click here to see a map of the beginning of the Vereda do Fanal trail. 

Here’s a picture of the beginning of the Vereda do Fanal hike:

Pro tip: Always check if the hike is open before going. You can check the conditions of all PR hikes in Madeira here on Visit Madeira’s site.

Starting at PR13 Vereda do Fanal parking lot

It’s best to follow this map for PR 13. The Google pin for Vereda do Fanal works well too to see the exact parking spot. It’s a small little gravel parking lot that fits about 5-10 cars and that’s where the hike starts from.

You’ll see the trail across the street with a sign that says “PR 13 Vereda do Fanal”. That’s exactly where you’ll start!

This isn’t going to be your standard flat hike in Madeira… There’s actually quite a bit of elevation gain on this one (1186 meters), and right off the bat, you’ll start descending into the trees.

You’ll notice throughout the hike how different the trees and flora are. It is pretty typical to experience that in Madeira and one thing we appreciate hiking in on this island.

In this beginning section, you’ll cross the main driving road a few times. It may seem confusing but don’t worry. There will be plenty of signs indicating that you’re on the right trail. Again, you can follow this map if you like to have it on your phone as well.

Follow Vereda do Fanal through the forest

If you look at the Vereda do Fanal trail map you’ll see the section between points 2 and 3! On this section, there are a bunch of beautiful viewpoints you can check out if the weather is sunny. We got a bit unlucky though since it was quite moody and cloudy. We didn’t get to see many of the views at all the viewpoints along the way.

If you’re lucky enough to have good weather in this section of the hike you’ll see the green rolling mountains all around. In between all the green mountains is where you’ll find Levada das 25 Fontes, one of Madeira’s most iconic and popular hikes.  

This section also has a lot of incline and decline so prepare your knees for it. We definitely recommend wearing some hiking shoes with ankle support. With over 20 km of walking through these trails your feet will thank you for it. Hiking poles are also a good idea to bring.

Back to the trail, this section really starts to give off some serious Lord of the Rings vibes. It feels like some sort of enchanted forest you’re walking through and during the perfect conditions (which is foggy), you can barely see more than a few meters ahead of you.

An important thing to make sure of here is that you stay on the right trail. There were a few times when we felt like we got lost and had to double-check our phone maps to make sure we were going the right way. 

At the end of point 3 on the map, you’ll cross back across the road to finish the last stretch of the hike.

The last stretch towards the Fanal Forest

This last stretch of the hike has a bit of incline as well. If you’re there on a sunny and clear day, you’ll be able to see quite far as you’ll be above most of the treeline. Not likely though, as this area is usually quite misty and foggy (which is totally worth the hype, by the way). The fog will make your experience at the Fanal Madeira Forest epic and almost magical.

We found this last section to be quite fun and we hope you enjoy it as well! And just to prepare you, you may run into a cow or two around one of the corners along the way.

We were just walking, talking, enjoying the views, and bam out of nowhere this cow just suddenly showed up. It definitely gave us a slight jump because it was so unexpected!

As you get closer and closer to Fanal Forest you’ll really start to see the fairy forest come to life. One moment you’ll be walking on a normal trail and the next moment you’ll turn a corner and the scenery will completely change!

Everything starts to get mossier, greener, lusher, and more fairy-esque! This area is really cool to take pictures of. You won’t be too far from the actual Fanal Forest at this point either! Get ready because it’s going to be magical! 

Explore the Fanal Madeira Forest 

You made it! The moment you’ve been waiting for. Honestly, the Fanal Forest is definitely the highlight of the PR 13 but the build-up to it makes it that much more magical in our opinion. 

Of course, you can just drive up to the parking lot and see the trees in a few minutes but it’s so much more rewarding and fun when you have to work for something! So after the 10 ish km of hiking, you’ll really enjoy this beautiful forest. 

The best part is that this forest is huge and not dense at all like what you’d imagine a typical forest to look like. The trees that grow here are super spread apart and you can walk among them and explore the forest. And because of the fog, you will barely notice if other people are around you. 

Take some epic pictures with the trees and play with your camera to get some epic angles and shots. Just make sure to bring a rain jacket because this area, in particular, gets really wet! 

Enjoy this unique forest! If you’re curious as to how this forest lives in Madeira it’s because the Laurel forest is a type of subtropical forest that lives in places with high humidity and relatively stable, mild temperatures. That’s the fun fact for the day! 😉

What to bring on the Fanal Madeira Trail

One of the most important things to bring on this hike is the proper clothes. You’re going near the top of Madeira Island which means wind and cooler weather. So even if it’s sunny and warm where you are before going on the hike, the weather can be completely different up by the Vereda do Fanal and in the Fanal Forest. It never hurts to bring some extra clothes and if it’s warm you can always put them back in your backpack.

A lot of food and water is important too. The hike is over 20 km return and with a good amount of elevation so make sure you bring enough for the trip. We did bring some food but it definitely wouldn’t have hurt to have more during the hike. It’s long and fairly exhausting by the end of it so more food would have been nice!

Other than that, all other standard things you bring on a hike are recommended!

Verada do Fanal packing list:

• Water! We always fill up our LifeStraw bottles before hikes and even during them when we can. Make sure to fill it up beforehand as you won’t be able to fill it during the hike. We recommend bringing at least 1.5L of water.
• Sunscreen is highly recommended when hiking in Madeira. On most hikes in Madeira you’ll be exposed to the sun for good sections of them so it’s good to always have some handy. We say it’s almost always rainy and cloudy here but if it is sunny it will get hot and there will be a few sections with direct exposure!
• A power bank because you never know when you’re going to run out of battery, especially in a foreign country. It’s not the end of the world but it always feels good knowing your phone is not going to die at any minute. 
• Bring some lunch for a nice picnic. We had some food at the midway point and also at the Fanal Forest. The more food the better, right! 😉
• Hiking poles are a good idea as well! There’s quite a bit of incline on this hike so we recommend bringing a set of hiking poles.
• Hiking shoes are really nice to have on this hike. The trail is well maintained but there are stairs, dirt, and loose terrain at certain parts so it’s nice to have proper hiking shoes for it.

You can check out this great list of hiking gear to get some more inspiration!

Before you hike Vereda do Fanal

Check the weather

No matter where you hike, you should always check the weather before you go. Madeira has a micro-climate so the weather is always changing and can be very different even a few kilometers away. This is the best way to prepare for the hike ahead of you.

Especially in Fanal where more often than not you’ll have rain and fog. This section of the island is known for this kind of weather. Even if it’s sunny in Funchal or Ponta do Sol it’s likely it’s raining in Fanal. You can check the weather for Fanal here.

To be honest there really isn’t a bad day to go to Fanal Madeira. If it’s a clear sunny day then great, you’ll be able to see this beautiful forest. If it’s raining and moody then great because you’ll see the magical side of the Fanal Forest and get some incredible shots.

Wear hiking shoes

It’s a long hike with sections that can get muddy and wet. Some hiking boots are great, especially if they’re waterproof. By the end of the hike you’ll end up walking close to 20 km so some good hiking shoes are recommended!

Book your rental car beforehand  

Unfortunately, you can’t get to Fanal Madeira by bus or public transport so renting a car, private shuttle, or going on a guided tour are your only options. 

There are tons of other hikes that you can take public transport to, but renting a car is totally worth it to go to the Fanal forest. 

If you’re staying in Funchal there are quite a few places you can rent from but we recommend either renting it through Discover Cars from Madeira Airport or going to 7M downtown Funchal and talking with Bruno. He’ll try his best to hook you up with a discount if it’s possible. These are the two cheapest options!

The Vereda do Fanal trail is located at the plateau of Paul da Serra in the North-Western part of Madiera, and it might feel like the hike starts in the middle of nowhere. Especially since most people just drive to the Fanal Madeira parking lot to see the trees and don’t actually hike the Vereda do Fanal. So you might have this parking lot to yourself!

The best and cheapest way to get there is to rent a car and drive to the trailhead. If you have a car, it’s easy to get to the trailhead from anywhere on the island. One thing we love about Madeira is the fact that the distances between everywhere are quite short.

Getting to Vereda do Fanal by car

Here are the distances and time frames between Funchal and Vereda do Fanal as well as Ponta do Sol to Vereda do Fanal.

From Funchal to the start of Vereda do Fanal trail:

• 55-minute drive (50 kilometers)
• You can follow the directions from Funchal to Vereda do Fanal here.

From Ponta do Sol to Vereda do Fanal trail: 

• 35-minute drive (20 kilometers)
• You can follow the directions from Ponta do Sol to Vereda do Fanal here.

Going by private and guided tour 

This is another option if you don’t want to rent a car. The nice thing about going on a guided tour is that they’ll pick you up and drop you off right in Funchal. We’ve done a few guided tours when we hiked Levada 25 Fontes and Pico do Arieiro and it was a great way to learn about the island, the hike, and the local flora and fauna.

The only downside is that for this specific hike it is quite a bit more expensive going on a guided tour than renting a car but we still wanted to put the option out there since we really have enjoyed guided tours on the island.

Here’s a bit more information about going on a private tour of Vereda do Fanal.

When is the best time to hike Vereda do Fanal

We hiked this in February which is considered to be the slow season in Madeira and because of the rainy and foggy weather the hike wasn’t too crowded. However, during the summer months, it can get really busy with the car park being so close to this cool spot (at least at the actual Fanal Forest).

The hike itself never gets too busy as the main point of attraction is the Fanal Forest but, as we mentioned before, most people will enter the forest from the other side. So the trail will never be overly crowded, especially since most people who do want to go hiking go chasing the waterfalls on Levada 25 Falls or Levada do Alecrim instead.

If you want to see the real magic of the Fanal Forest, go on a more gloomy and rainy day. Try to go early in the morning as well. This way you have more time to do the hike, fewer people around, and by the time you get to Fanal Forest, hopefully, it will be covered in fog. It honestly is the best way to experience this area!

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Other related questions to hiking the PR13 Vereda do Fanal

Do you need to book in advance to visit Vereda do Fanal?

If you’re planning on hiking and visiting Vereda do Fanal yourself you don’t need to book anything in advance. There are options to go on guided tours of the Vereda do Fanal which you should book in advance. Especially during summer months where guided walking tours in Madeira are always booked!

What’s the best way to see Vereda do Fanal?

The best way to see Vereda do Fanal is to either rent a car or go on a guided tour of Vereda do Fanal. If you’re looking for a full day trip then you should do the full hike we recommend in this post. If you just want to see the Fanal Forest then the best way to see it is to park at the parking lot right at the beginning of this beautiful forest.

Recap of hiking Vereda do Fanal

If you really want a unique hiking experience on the island of Madeira you have to hike to the Fanal Forest. Of course, all the Levada hikes, waterfall hikes, and coastal hikes are stunning but Vereda do Fanal is just different and very unique.

It’s not a challenging hike but it is long and has a good amount of incline. However, the forest and the trees in Fanal make it totally worth it. By doing the hike, you get to see a part of Madeira that a lot of tourists don’t end up seeing and that’s what we love about it. 

So, pack your camera, hiking boots, and rain jacket and get ready to have a fun time exploring this part of Madeira.

Have fun!

Dom & Jo
Red White Adventures

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