We hope you’re not afraid of heights! You’re about to go to some of the craziest cliffs and coastline in the world. The Vereda do Larano hike takes you along the eastern part of Madeira. You’ll go along the coast where you get some insane views of the ocean and the Madeiran coastline.

You’ll even be able to see the Dragon’s Tail aka Vereda Ponta São Lourenço, another hike we absolutely recommend doing while you’re in Madeira. 

This hike starts up in the hills of Machico and ends up by the beach in Porta de Cruz. You’ll only be hiking the one way unless you’re crazy enough to turn it into a long in-and-out trail – but the one way is definitely long enough!

Like most hikes in Madeira, you’ll be following a Levada (stream of water) for a good portion of the hike before getting to the most beautiful coastline you’ve ever seen!

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What to expect when hiking the Vereda do Larano hike

One thing that is quite common on most of the hikes around Madeira is that there’s never really any crazy incline. So even though the hike may seem fairly long it’s not going to be crazy hard because the incline will never be too bad. The most challenging thing will likely be the weather.

Madeira has a micro-climate and it can go from hot and sunny to downpour fairly quickly. The locals often joke that in Madeira you can experience four seasons in one day. Luckily we had amazing weather on our hike and had no issues besides a bit (read: a lot) of wind. 

You can definitely expect some steep cliffs along a portion of the Vereda do Larano. It may sound scary for those afraid of heights but we never felt unsafe at all during the hike. The path is wide enough for a few people to walk next to each other and there are even railings along the trail where it does seem a bit more dangerous.

You’ll be in for some insane views of the coast of Madeira, Ponta Sao Lourenço (Dragon’s tail), Boca do Risco trail, and the Atlantic ocean. For that reason, this hike can get a little busy but it really depends on when you do it – both in terms of which day of the weak and which season.

We did this hike in February which is considered shoulder season in Madeira and it was relatively quiet but we still ran into people every once in a while including a big group. It’s definitely not as busy at Levada 25 Fontes or Vereda Ponta São Lourenço though.

Practical information about hiking the Vereda do Larano trail

Official name: Levada do Caniçal – Vereda do Larano
Distance: 12 km return / 7.45 miles return
Elevation: Roughly 967 m / 3173 ft. elevation gain
Type: One-way trail 
Length: 3-4 hours total (includes time for pictures and a lunch break)
Difficulty: Moderate to hard (just because of the distance)
Rating: 4.5 out of 5 stars

Click here to see a map of the beginning of the Vereda do Larano.

Here’s a picture of the beginning of the Vereda do Larano hike:

Starting at Levada do Caniçal

There are multiple starting points for the Vereda do Larano hike. We chose this on since we were told by locals that it’s the best starting point if you’re taking public transport. Since it is a one-way trail, public transport is best. We’ll get more into that further down this post.

The trail actually starts at a Levada called Levada do Caniçal. The starting point will seem absolutely random since it starts at a bus stop right before the tunnel that leads to Caniçal. If you didn’t do any research beforehand you’d have absolutely no idea this incredible hike starts right from this spot.

You’ll find the Levada do Caniçal starting right in front of the first house on the corner. It’s not very obvious but there will be a little sign and some water flowing in the Levada. It may seem strange and as if you’re walking on private property, but don’t worry, you’re on the right track.

After a few minutes, you’ll be away from the houses and out in nature following the Levada until it connects with the rest of the hike.

It’s kind of nice having Levadas on the majority of the hiking trails on the island. It makes you feel like you’re always on the right track!

Following Levada do Caniçal to Vereda do Larano 

The first section of the trail will take you past some houses up in the hills above Machico. It’s not the most beautiful section of the trail but it’s super interesting walking in what feels like a more rural area next to Levada Caniçal.

It’s cool how all these Levadas around the island connect together and help feed water to all the farmers. Speaking of farmers… You will likely meet some on your way. We ran into farmers 3-4 times on this hike and they were all very friendly. So practice your Portuguese before you go 😉

As you follow the Levada, it will slowly bring you up into the mountains where you’ll start to see other villages and other farmhouses up in the hills.

At one point you’ll come to a country road. Once you’re there, just continue across the road and hop onto the trail again. There should be some markings but it’s almost directly across the street so it shouldn’t be hard to find.

From there you’ll continue a little bit until you see a sign that takes you off this main trail and up into the mountains and towards Vereda do Larano. You can always look back at the trail guide (we use Mapy.CZ) to make sure you’re on the right track.

The internet connection is pretty solid on most of the hike so you should always be able to look back at your maps. You can use this Vereda do Larano map to see exactly where on the trail you are.

Beginning of Vereda do Larano towards Boca do Risco

If he’s still there you’ll see a little goat roaming around the sign where Vereda do Larano starts. There are actually a few goats in the area and they’re quite cute! They’re tied though so if you’re afraid of goats, there’s no need to worry.

When the trail forks (at the sign) you’ll take the trail that leads to the right (basically straight) up towards Boca do Risco (another amazing trail). There are a few signs and this is the actual beginning of the Vereda do Larano section of the hike. 

This is where the hike really starts to get fun and the landscape starts to change. Everything becomes greener and you can feel the winds from the coast not too far away. The day we went it was VERY windy and we’ve heard that’s quite normal so be careful not to blow away 😉

This section of the Vereda do Larano is where the elevation is made. There’s a short section with a bit more incline here but nothing too challenging. It’s roughly a 15 minutes walk with an incline starting from the beginning of the Vereda do Larano trailhead to Boca do Risco where you’ll finally get your first taste of the coast. 

As soon as you get to Boca do Risco, our favourite part of the hike begins!

Hiking along the coast on Vereda do Larano

Once you make it to the peak of Boca do Risco (at the T intersection) you will take a left and continue along the water. This is the section called Vereda do Larano that goes towards Porto da Cruz. You’ll see exactly why this is our favourite section of the hike. 

Make sure to not go right along the Boca do Risco trail because then you will end up back in Canical instead of Porto da Cruz!

This section of the coastline on Madeira’s eastern coast is seriously out of this world. The insane drops, crazy cliffs, and nature are so beautiful you just have to see it for yourself. You feel like you’re in a completely different world. 

There are some steep drop-offs while hiking this section of the Vereda do Larano. The trail is wide enough that even if you’re afraid of heights it should be manageable. There are also railings along some of the sketchier sections.

You’ll have a good hour walking along this coast, admiring the views, taking pictures at all the awesome viewpoints, and looking back to see if you can see the Dragon’s Tail way in the distance. 

Don’t rush this section of the hike, though! It’s amazing and by far the best part of the whole trail. Find a nice relaxing spot where you can have lunch and enjoy the views. 

As you get near the end of the Larano trail you’ll finally see Porto da Cruz in the distance! That’s the final destination so you won’t be too far at this point.

The last stretch to Porto da Cruz

The fun ain’t over! It’s a short walk to Porto da Cruz where cafes await with coffee, tea, and yummy cakes! Well, at least that’s what we did because half the fun in hiking is all the yummy food you get to eat along the way, right?

So once you complete the Vereda do Larano there are a few options to get to Porto da Cruz. You can take the quickest and easiest way by walking on the main road. It’s not the most exciting but it’ll get you to town and to the cafe the quickest. (You can also hitchhike on this section if that’s something you’re into!)

Otherwise, you can take the more scenic route and follow the Levadas toward the beach next to Porto da Cruz and end up in town this way. This way takes a bit longer (and the route is slightly overgrown) but at least you get to continue on the trail a little bit longer and get some cool views overlooking Porto da Cruz! 

Once you’ve made it to town you’ve completed the 12 kilometers and made it to the end of the hike. It’s one of many one-way trails on the island. One thing we love about all these different trails in Madeira is that they’re not all in-and-out trails but more point A to point B trails.

What to bring on Vereda do Larano

One of the most important things to bring on this hike is a portable charger. The hike is a few hours long. If you’re like us and take a bunch of photos and use maps to navigate then you’ll want to make sure you have enough battery for the end of the hike to see exactly when and where the bus leaves from! You can also find this information further down in this post, so you can always come back into this to double-check.

Another good thing to consider is the fact that the coast can get quite windy and it’s a good idea to bring a sweater just in case. It can be really sunny in Machico but crazy windy up on the Vereda do Larano trail. Bring layers to be safe! 

It’s not a challenging hike but it’s fairly long so come prepared with food and water as well – and hiking shoes are definitely recommended but not necessary.

Packing list for the Vereda do Larano coastal trail:

  • Water! We always fill up our LifeStraw bottles before hikes and even during them when we can. A few liters should be enough for the trail and you can always grab something at a cafe in Porto da Cruz afterwards.
  • Sunscreen is highly recommended when hiking in Madeira. On most coastal hikes in Madeira you’ll be exposed to the sun for good sections of them so it’s a good idea to always have some handy.
  • A power bank because you never know when you’re going to run out of battery, especially in a foreign country. It’s not the end of the world but it always feels good knowing your phone is not going to die at any minute. 
  • Bring some lunch for a nice picnic. We stopped along the coast on the Levada do Larano and ate lunch with one of the best views we’ve seen to date on the island.
  • If you’re like us and like a good cup of coffee ☕️ then you can also bring a thermo bottle with some coffee for your hike. We use the Classic Legendary Bottle from Stanley and love it!
  • Hiking poles are always nice to have! The incline and decline on most hikes on the island aren’t that crazy but since this is a longer trails, your knees will thank you for using hiking poles.

You can check out this great list of hiking gear to get some more inspiration!

Before you hike Vereda do Larano 

Check the weather

No matter where you hike, you should always check the weather before you go. Madeira has a micro-climate so the weather is always changing and can be very different even a few kilometers away. This is the best way to prepare for the hike ahead of you.

You can check the weather near Canical here (the city next to the hike). You can also check the weather for Porto da Cruz here which is where the hike ends. 

We’d recommend going on a clear day. Especially for hiking up by the coast, it’s nice to go on a sunny day with no rain and good visibility. The nice thing about hiking in Madeira is that if the weather is rainy and cloudy on one part of the island you can always try and see if the other side is sunny and clear. 

With the micro-climate around the island, more often than not, you should be able to find a good sunny spot to go hiking somewhere.

Wear hiking shoes

We did this hike in our hiking shoes and we totally made the right call. The trail is really well maintained but over 12 kilometers, the hard surface can get to you and with hiking shoes or trail shoes you really don’t notice it the same way.

Buying hiking shoes has honestly been one of the best investments we’ve made and we wear them literally anytime we go on a hike!

Check the bus schedule 

If you’re planning to take public transport (which we recommend) it’s not a bad idea to at least try and have a rough idea of what bus you’ll take there and back (time-wise).

Bus 113 goes all the way from Funchal and stops right at the beginning of the trailhead right before the tunnel to Caniçal. Return you can go from Porto da Cruz back to Funchal by bus 53, 78 or 208.

You can find more information about both directions below.

How to get to Vereda do Larano

Funchal to Manchico google maps picture.
Map of the route from Funchal to the Levada do Canical trailhead

The hike itself sort of starts in the most random place. Thankfully bus 113 from Funchal does go there so it really is easy to get to. You can also leave your car at the starting point. If you decide to rent a car in Madeira but for this specific hike, it’s easier to take public transport if you’re coming from Funchal.

Taking the bus from Funchal to Vereda do Larano

To get from Funchal to Vereda do Larano by bus, you can see the bus schedule for bus 113 here. When you look, make sure to look at the right day of the week as the schedules are different depending on what day of the week you go.

Even though buses are usually late in Funchal, we’ve found bus 113 to be one of the ones that is pretty much always on time!

There are multiple bus stops that bus 113 leaves from in Funchal, but if you’re staying in Old Town Funchal, you can take it from this Sam bus stop.

From Funchal, there’s an express 113 bus and a standard 113 bus. As long as you take the standard 113 you can get off directly in front of the tunnel where the hike starts.

If you end up taking the express 113 then you will have to transfer in Machico at the main bus station (at no additional cost + the ride will be more pleasant and faster).

You can tell the driver that you are getting off at “Tunnel Caniçal” or going to “Vereda Larano” they’ll know exactly what you mean.

Pro tip: The bus schedule varies depending on the day of the week, so make sure you’re looking at the right day.

Getting to Vereda do Larano by car

Here are the distances and time frames between Funchal and Vereda do Lorano as well as Ponta do Sol to Vereda do Lorano.

From Funchal to start of Vereda do Larano trail:

From Ponta do Sol to Vereda do Larano trail: 

  • 45-minute drive (50 kilometers)

You can follow the directions from Ponta do Sol to Vereda do Larano here.

Renting a car in Madeira

For this specific hike in Madeira, renting a car can work but it can also be a bit challenging since you will either need to hike back and do the full 24 km or take a bus, taxi, or Uber/Bolt back to the starting point to pick up your car.

Honestly driving in Madeira is a lot of fun. The roads do have crazy inclines when you drive up to the mountains but in general driving in Madeira is super safe and fun with the new tunnel network they have in place around the island.

So if you do book a car it’s best to book it in advance and pick up the car at Madeira airport if you’re keeping the car for a while. This will be the cheaper option.

An alternative is to go to 7M in downtown Funchal and, hopefully, Bruno will be there to help you out. He’s super friendly and will do his best to hook you up with the best deal.

Prices do change all the time based on supply and demand so if you really know you’ll be driving a lot and exploring the island it’s best to book your car in advance. 

Picture of a car rental from Madeira Airport in Portugal.

How to get from Porto da Cruz back to Funchal

The reason we recommend taking public transport if you’re staying in Funchal is that once you’re done the hike you can just hop on the bus from Porto da Cruz when it comes and it will bring you directly back to Funchal. 

This public transport map for Madeira will become super useful over your time in Madeira. It has all the routes on the eastern side of the island including timetables. So you can always screenshot these in case you run out of data or don’t have reception.

You can find the exact spot for the SAM bus stop in Porto da Cruz on this map. It’s right next to this little church and it will have the “SAM bus timetable” next to the bus stop. If you can’t find it, ask any local “SAM Autobus Funchal” and they’ll point you in the right direction. 

The bus from Porta da Cruz stops in Machico before making its way back to Funchal.

Best time to hike Vereda do Larano

The Levada do Caniçal section of the hike is rarely too busy. It is nice to get started early and get that section done with so once you’re on the Vereda do Larano you can find a nice spot to enjoy your lunch. 

The earlier in the day you go the better. You don’t really want to do this hike late in the day as the buses from Porto da Cruz to Funchal stop running as frequently. 

This hike never really gets overrun with tourists as most are either hiking the Levada de 25 Fontes or Ponta São Lourenço so it doesn’t matter what time of year you do it in.

The only thing to consider is the weather when planning this hike. The coast can get windy and when it’s raining you will really get pelted with rain. So at that point, it’s best to consider another hike!

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Other questions related to hiking the Vereda do Larano coastal walk

Do you need to book in advance to visit Vereda do Larano?

No, you don’t have to book in advance to visit Vereda do Larano. It’s a free walk you can do on the east coast of Madeira. You can hop on the bus and buy the ticket on the bus.

The only thing you’d have to book in advance for the Vereda do Larano is if you plan to go on a guided tour. Then for that it’s best to book in advance especially during the summer months when Madeira gets really busy.

What’s the best way to Vereda do Larano?

The best way to do the Vereda do Larano coastal walk is to follow the steps we mentioned and to start the hike in Machico and finish in Porto da Cruz. The views of doing the hike from South to North are just better in our opinion and the hike is more enjoyable.

Recap of hiking Vereda do Larano

If you want to go a little off the beaten path but still a fairly visited trail in Madeira this is the one. It may seem a little confusing with the buses and everything but it really is simple. You’ll take a bus to the trailhead, enjoy the awesome hike, and then take a bus from Porto da Cruz back to Funchal. So there’s nothing to worry about there and you can just enjoy the whole hike. 

We really enjoyed this hike because of the combination of the Levada do Caniçal section that eventually transitions into this epic coastal hike. On this hike, you get a feel for the Levadas which you see all over the island as well as these epic coastal views that Madeira is famous for.

It’s not a hard hike but you still want to come prepared so you enjoy the whole thing. It’s one of the top hikes we’ve done in Madeira and hopefully, it will be one of yours as well!

Have fun!

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