Complete Guide to Hiking the Caldeirão do Inferno Waterfall

Waterfalls, Levadas, tunnels, and one of the best hiking trails on the island is what you’ll find hiking the Levada Caldeirão do Inferno.

This stunning hike is located up on the north side of the island. It’s located near Santana and takes place deep in the lush Madeira mountains.

This is one of the most fun and most rewarding hikes we’ve done in Madeira. Anyone looking for a nice long hike who loves waterfalls and breathtaking green scenery will love it!

To get to the trailhead of this hike, you’ll first have to conquer Levada do Caldeirão Verde. Inferno is an extension of that hike. A 2-in-1 hike!

After the first hike, you’ll then continue along the trail and embark on the trek to Caldeirão do Inferno. It makes for a big day of hiking! In the end, you’re going to be rewarded with a bunch of amazing views, waterfalls, and hopefully lots of sun!

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What to expect when hiking Caldeirão do Inferno 

Caldeirão do Inferno is an addition to the Caldeirão Verde hike which is the most popular hike from Parque Queimadas. You’re going to have to hike the whole Levada do Caldeirão Verde to get to the beginning of Caldeirão do Inferno trail. 

This is quite a long hike when you add the Levada do Caldeirão Verde to Inferno but there’s no other way to get to Inferno besides hiking Verde first. Thankfully, the hike is absolutely beautiful and there’s not a whole lot of incline besides near the last part of the hike towards Inferno. There, a whole lot of stairs will be waiting for you, so you better be ready for it ;).

You can get a feel for the first section of the hike which is Levada do Caldeirão Verde here. You’re going to walk through a whole lot of tunnels on this hike towards Inferno (especially on the second part of the hike) so be prepared to watch your head. Some of the tunnels are extremely narrow and not very tall. Jo actually really hurt her head in one of the tunnels and we saw another lady hurt hers too, so we’re talking from experience here.

At the end of the hike (and throughout it for that matter), you will be rewarded with some incredible views of waterfalls right in front of your eyes but also far in the distance. Madeira is known for its waterfalls and this hike does not disappoint! You will be met with incredible waterfalls including at the end of each trailhead and a few smaller ones along the trail as well.

Practical information about hiking the Levada Caldeirão Inferno (PR 9)

Official trail name: PR 9 – Levada Caldeirão do Inferno
Distance: 16.5 km return / 10.25 miles return
Elevation: Roughly 2695 m / 8841 ft. elevation gain
Type: In and out trail
Length: 6.5-8 hours total (includes breaks at Caldeirão Verde and Inferno)
Difficulty: Hard (long trail with a lot of elevation)
Rating: 4.5/5
Click here to see a map of the beginning of the Levada Caldeirão do Inferno.

Here’s a picture of the beginning of the Levada Caldeirão do Inferno:

Starting at the Parque Queimadas

This hike starts exactly like Levada Caldeirão Verde at Parque Queimadas (surprise) near Santana. Here you can buy a little coffee or pastry and use the bathroom before embarking onto the trailhead. Once you’re ready, you can follow the signs onto the Levada Caldeirão Verde. This first part of the section might be a little busy but it will get better as you get deeper into the hike.

Once you’ve found the trailhead, the hike is pretty straightforward. Stay on the path until you reach the Levada Caldeirão Verde waterfall about 5.5-6 km into the trail. Then follow the steps below.

As we mentioned, the Caldeirão do Inferno Waterfall is basically an extension of the Caldeirão Verde trail. For a more detailed guide on the Caldeirão Verde trail, check out this post.

Crossing the “river” from Caldeirão Verde

Cadeirão Waterfall is the turning back point for most people. The waterfall is epic and it totally makes sense why most people go to the waterfall, enjoy lunch by the stream/river, and then turn back. 

Let’s just say there’s so much more waiting for you across that stream/river. If you’re an avid hiker and love adventure then you’re going to absolutely love the hike up to Inferno. 

It starts by crossing the river where most people will be hanging out and eating lunch on the rocks. Once you’re across the “river” you’ll see the sign for Caldeirão do Inferno (behind Dom in the picture above). This is where this part of the hike starts. 

There will be others doing the hike with you but it’s not going to be nearly as crowded as the hike to Caldeirão Verde because there is quite a bit of elevation awaiting you.

Hiking to the staircase up to Caldeirão do Inferno

Hopefully, you won’t get too wet crossing the little stream. There are enough rocks that you can kind of hop between them without getting wet to get to the other side. The water isn’t running that fast either so it should be easy. However, wearing waterproof hiking shoes probably isn’t the worst idea 😉

This section is a little bit similar to the last section of the Verde hike before it turns into the Inferno hike. You can expect lots of walking around the mountains next to the Levada. The trail does get quite narrow with steep drops on the side but there are railings so if you’re afraid of heights this section might be a little scary for you.

Fun fact: There are over 3000 kilometers of Levadas in Madeira!

There are quite a few caves along the Levada Caldeirão do Inferno. Lots of them are quite short but there are at least a few small ones before you get to the staircase where the real ascent begins. 

Basically, at one point, the trail will go from completely flat to an arrow pointing towards a staircase and that’s where you really start to gain elevation up what feels like a million stairs.

Up the staircase and through the tunnels on the PR 9

This section is probably the hardest bit of the whole hike. We didn’t count how many stairs there were but there were a lot. Thankfully, the view climbing up the stairs gives you a reason to keep going! From there, you’ll be able to see a few waterfalls in between the green, lush landscape that looks like it’s taken straight out of a Jurassic Park movie.

As you get to the top of the staircase you’ll see a few tunnels and what looks to have been an ancient mine. The tracks are still there that go into the tunnel where there may have been a mine in the past.

You’ll continue to the right around the mine and on the trail where you’ll hike under a few more waterfalls and through a few tunnels. Watch your head though as the tunnels feel like they get smaller and smaller. You definitely don’t want to bash your head right before getting to Inferno!

From tunnels to the Ribeira Grande waterfall

After quite a few tunnels, you will reach the most incredible waterfall, the Ribeira Grande waterfall. A lot of people stop here thinking that this is the Caldeirão do Inferno but you’re actually just a few minutes away from that one. We will agree, though, that this waterfall is a lot cooler and more powerful, but you’ve made it this far so might as well walk the last portion to the actual end of the hike!

Enjoying the view at Caldeirão do Inferno before heading back

Finally, after the last tunnel, everything will open up and you’ll see the huge waterfall up close for the first time. Both Caldeirão Verde and Ribeira Grande waterfalls are epic and cool to see but it’s fun to make it all the way to the end of Caldeirão Inferno. It’s probably one of the longest and hardest hikes on the island so it’s a good accomplishment to check this one off the list.

Looking for another challenging hike in Madeira? Check out Pico do Arierio to Pico Ruivo!

There is some room to hang out by Caldeirão do Inferno. We were slowly running out of time to catch the bus back to Funchal so we had to hurry our way back after seeing the waterfall and capturing a few shots. But it is a nice spot to take a break before heading back to the start. 

The one thing we’d recommend when going back is to be a bit more careful than on the way up. You’re a bit more tired, maybe in a rush, and may overlook stuff so just take your time through the tunnels and the more narrow sections. 

Eventually, you’ll get back to Caldeirão Verde and then you’ll just have the relaxing Levada walk that will get you back to the beginning of the hike. 

It is a long hike but the amount of waterfalls you will see makes the 16.5 kilometers totally worth it! Lots of the hike is relatively flat apart from the staircase and a few other parts. So it’s not the same feeling as climbing straight up a mountain for a few hours straight. It’s much easier than that!

What to bring on the Levada Caldeirão do Inferno

Caldeirão do Inferno is a long hike and there isn’t anywhere to grab food or stop along the hike. There is a little shop at Parque Queimadas where you can grab a few small things but it’s definitely a smart idea to bring a bunch of food and water on this hike.

You’re going to be out on the trail for at least 6 hours and you’re going to use a bunch of energy throughout the day so it’s good to come with a full backpack of food, water, and clothes.

Probably the second most important thing to consider is either bringing a head torch or a portable charger (or both) to make sure your phone doesn’t die. You want to make sure you have enough battery to use your phone as a flashlight through the dark tunnels and for getting back home after the hike.

Packing list for Levada do Caldeirão Verde:

• Water! We always fill up our LifeStraw bottles before hikes and even during them when we can. Make sure to fill it up beforehand
• Sunscreen is highly recommended when hiking in Madeira. Even though it may not seem like you’re exposed to the sun much on these hikes there’s definitely sections where you will be completely exposed to the sun.
• A power bank because you never know when you’re going to run out of battery. Especially with the amount of pictures you’ll be taking and flashlight use throughout the tunnels.
• Food! Bring some food! Have a picnic at one of the waterfalls and enjoy the incredible views from the hike. We stopped at the first waterfall and also Caldeirão Verde for a nice lunch break. Then we stopped after Inferno just for a quick snack before returning back.
• Hiking poles are always nice to have! The incline and decline on most hikes on the island aren’t that crazy but it’s always nice to have a set of hiking poles.
• Waterproof hiking shoes are also recommended on this hike. The trail is well maintained but there are stairs, water, dirt, and loose terrain at certain parts so it’s nice to have proper, waterproof hiking shoes for it.
• A head torch will come in handy on this trail as there are over 10 tunnels you have to go through!

You can check out this great list of hiking gear to get some more inspiration!

Before you hike Levada Caldeirão Verde / Levada Caldeirão do Inferno

Check the weather

No matter where you hike, you should always check the weather before you go. Madeira has a micro-climate so the weather is constantly changing and can be very different even a few kilometers away. Checking the weather forecast is the best way to prepare for the hike ahead of you.

Thankfully, we had a nice warm and sunny day but only about a 40-minute drive from where we were hiking, there was a ton of snow up in Ribeiro Frio. The Levada do Caldeirão Verde & Inferno is a bit lower in elevation but can still get snow in the area. You can see the weather for Parque Queimadas here which is where the hike starts.

As long as it hasn’t been raining or snowing much lately, the trail should be in great condition. Please note that this hike is likely marked as closed due to a rockfall that happened a few years ago but the trail is still in fine condition and people will still be walking on it (including guided tours). Remember: Going is at your own risk.

Pro tip: Before going on a hike in Madeira, always check if the trail is open via Visit Madeira’s website.

Wear waterproof hiking shoes

One of the tunnels on the first half of the hike had water to our ankles and there’s a few other sections where you may sometimes find water on the trail from a small waterfall or from a bunch of rain the day before.

Plan to wear waterproof hiking shoes if you have some with you in Madeira (if not, we can highly recommend this pair from Columbia). It’s a fairly long hike and even though the trail is well maintained it’s nice to have the proper shoes for the trail.

Book your rental car beforehand  

Unfortunately, you can’t get to the Levada Caldeirão do Inferno by bus or public transport. The closest you can get to the hike is the town of Santana which is still a little far away by foot. So renting a car is your best option unless you take a bus to Santana and hitchhike like we did.

If you’re staying in Funchal, there are quite a few places to rent a car from but we recommend either renting a car from Madeira Airport through Discover Cars (where you can compare prices across different rental companies) or going to 7M downtown Funchal and talking with Bruno. He’ll try his best to hook you up with a discount if it’s possible.

You can also find everything you need to know about driving in Madeira here! It’s surprisingly a very safe island to drive around.

Check out other hikes in the area

Since you’re already in the Santana area there’s a few short hikes you can add to your day trip if you want something extra to see. Aguage Waterfall is a beautiful waterfall right in Santana not far from this hike. The hike itself takes around 15-20 minutes return so it’s super short. Totally worth it if you’re already going to Santana after the hike.

Another hike is the Cascata Agua D’Alto hidden waterfall right in between this hike and Santana. If you have the time and want to do another short hike once you complete this one you can go smash out that one.

It takes roughly an hour return if you enjoy yourself and take some pictures of the waterfall. This part of the island is unreal and these are just two of many awesome spots to checkout near Santana!

How to get to Levada Caldeirão do Inferno

The Levada Caldeirão do Inferno parking lot is the same parking lot as Parque Forestal de Queimadas. There is a €3 fee to park your car there for the day that you have to pay in order to leave the parking lot again.

The best and cheapest way is to just rent a car and drive to the parking lot. If you have a car, it’s easy to get to the trailhead from anywhere on the island. Be prepared for a nice uphill drive as you get closer to the parking lot. If you have a rental car, you’re most likely going to have a Fiat Panda with not too many horsepowers so it’s quite an adventure! 😉

Surprisingly, we actually didn’t rent a car for this specific hike and took a bus from Funchal to Santana (we can’t really recommend this). From there,, we walked to the main road going up to Parque Forestal de Queimadas and then hitchhiked from there. We got picked up right away since everyone on that road is going to the same place.

If you don’t mind hitchhiking, you can do the same thing – however, keep in mind that this, too, is at your own risk. Madeira is a very safe place and all the locals and tourists we’ve met are so friendly but bad things can happen anywhere so do what you feel is best for you! Safety always comes first 🙂

Going back after the hike, we did the same thing. We hitchhiked to Santana and then took the bus back from Santana to Funchal. So it’s doable this way if you’re up for a bit of an adventure but renting a car is probably your best bet. If there are a few of you, renting a car should be a no-brainer.

From Funchal to start of Levada Caldeirão do Inferno trailhead:

• 50-minute drive (45 kilometers)
• You can follow the directions from Funchal to Levada Caldeirão do Inferno here.

From Ponta do Sol to Levada Caldeirão do Inferno trailhead: 

• 1 hour drive (65 kilometers)
• You can follow the directions from Ponta do Sol to Levada Caldeirão do Inferno here.

Getting to Caldeirao Inferno by public transport and hitchhiking

If you don’t mind hitchhiking then you can easily get there by public transport. This is by far the cheapest option unless you’re in a group of people. You can take bus 56 from downtown Funchal which takes roughly an hour and will drop you off in downtown Santana. 

From downtown Santana, you can walk to Caminho das Queimadas street which is about a 2-3 minute walk from the bus stop. On this road everyone will be going up to the park so basically from here you can start hitchhiking and hopefully someone will pick you up. I think the first or second car that drove past us picked us up. From when they picked us up it was about a 4-5 minute drive to the Parque das Queimadas where the hike starts!

It may sound a little complicated but you basically take the bus to Santana and from there catch a ride to the trailhead and it will cost you about €4 total each way (for the bus from Funchal). So an €8 day trip!

However, this is a very long way to get there! It took twice as long to get to the trailhead by bus + hitchhiking as it would’ve if we would’ve rented a car. So again, we highly recommend renting a car for this hike.

Best time to hike Levada Caldeirão do Inferno

As long as the weather’s on your side there’s no bad time to hike Caldeirão do Inferno. Parque das Enqueimadas can get busy but not everyone ends up actually hiking to Caldeirão do Inferno. Most people just walk around the park or hike to Caldeirão Verde – but not all the way to Caldeirão do Inferno.

Hopefully it won’t feel crowded on the trail and as long as it’s not raining or hasn’t rained too much in the past few days the trail should be in fine condition to make it all the way to the end to see the mighty Inferno Waterfall.

To give you a last piece of advice, we recommend starting the hike earlier in the day. That way you can spend time at each waterfall and actually enjoy the whole hike without rushing the last bit like we had to so we could catch the bus back to Funchal.

If the weather’s not looking great on the north side of the island then maybe stick to a hike closer to Funchal like Levada do Furado, Levada do Bom Sucesso, and even Levada dos Tornos to Monte which starts right above Funchal.

You may also like…

• 21 Pebble and Sandy Beaches to Visit in Madeira
• Hiking the Local Levada do Bom Sucesso in Funchal
• The Most Famous Hike in Madeira – Pico do Arieiro (PR1)
• 12 of The Best Hikes to do in Madeira
• 26 Best Things to do in Funchal

Recap of hiking Levada Caldeirão do Inferno 

The Levada Caldeirão do Inferno is one of the most fun hikes we ended up doing on the island. It challenges you a little bit while offering you some awesome views along the way. If you love waterfalls, lush forests, and beautiful trails you’ll really enjoy the hike to Inferno. 

We seriously can’t get enough of all the amazing hikes there are around the island and while we’ve shared a ton of hikes in Madeira there are also some amazing beaches in Madeira worth checking out if you’re feeling like relaxing. 

We hope you have the best time hiking Caldeirão Verde and Caldeirão do Inferno! Feel free to reach out to us in our DMs on Instagram @redwhiteadventures or leave a comment below if you have any questions about the hike or how to get there. 

Have fun!

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